

- Provided with the plate are four m8 high grade 13mm (head size) bolts and washers. (Do
not reuse the factory bolts as they are lower grade fasteners, also the shoulder will not align with the holes in
the mounting tabs on the plate)
- Lubricate the four holes in the sides of the frame with a spray lubricant (like WD40 or
something comparable, I prefer Kroil). This will help remove the factory thread compound in the
next step.
- Test each bolt hole to insure that you can thread the bolt completely in and out with your
fingers. Clean them out good! If you leave the lock compound in the treads, it will be hard
to determine whether or not you're fighting that resistance or a cross thread.
- Because of the close tolerances the bolts should be started by hand (no power tools or ratchet
leverage) ** It's easy to cross thread these bolts, so be sure to start them with only the
strength of your fingers**
WORD OF CAUTION!! I do NOT recommend the use of thread locker on any of these bolts.
Reason being, this skid plate is extremely rigid. If you have a major impact, it's possible that
one of the bolts could shear. This has happened with the older lower grade fasteners but not
with the new 10.9 hardness bolts. In most cases you will never need to worry. If it does
happen though, you don't want that bolt locked in there, trust me!! If anything, put some anti
seize on them to keep them from rusting.
- The plate is designed with negative pitch on the mounting tabs. This means I have tilted
them outwards, away from the frame to ease installation. Once you fit your plate into
place, you will notice that there is some play from side to side, this is normal. Once you
tighten the bolts, it will be completely snug. (Don't worry about bending the tabs up close to the
frame, they will be fine. Also the outward pressure of the tabs acts as a lock to keep the bolts from coming
loose. Honestly, I don't even use any washers on my plate and have never had a problem!)
- Now fit the plate to the bike by keeping it square with the frame tubes. Gently raise it up
into place. Install the left rear bolt (by the shifter), then the right front. This will hold the
plate into place to install the other two bolts.
** IMPORTANT** Leave all bolts loose at first until you have them all started equally. This
plate is a very precise fitting design. If you run one of the bolts in too far, it will most likely
throw off the alignment of one or two of the other bolts.
- I designed the plate to be installed with a 3/8 ratchet, 6" 3/8 drive extension and a short
13 mm socket. To do your initial install use a 1/4" drive nut driver or simply a 1/4"
extension and a 13mm. This will allow you to insert the extension through the round hole
in the side guard, then put on your socket, tilt it upwards and put your bolt and washers in
the socket, lower them to the mount hole, thread them in by turning the extension (I use a
nut driver, but extensions work just as well). Using this method I can have my plate installed in
under two minutes.
- Once you do it a few times you will find that it's extremely easy to take on and off. (I can't
tell you how many times I fought those stupid clamps on other plates and the bolts on the bottom!!)
- Be sure to snug up all the bolts with 3/8 tools and recheck them after a few hours of
riding.
Now that you have your new plate on, you're gonna say "Damn, that thing is a BEAST!" (if you didn't say it as soon as you took it out of the box!)
|
Cargo Rack Install
1)Remove the two seat bolts.
2)Remove the two bolts inside the tool bag.
3) Lift the rear of the seat enough to set the rack into place.
4) Be sure both plastic side covers stay in place around the seat bolt mounts.
5)Gently slide the seat mount tabs between the rack mounts and the plastic.
6) Install two (provided) 60mm seat bolts each with a small washer.
7)With your fingers only thread the bolts into place, wiggle the seat and rack
until the bolt goes through and starts to thread, leave loose
8) Install the two remaining (provided) bolts, each with a large washer on top of
the rack ( oblong hole) and a large washer under the fender then add the nylon
lock nut.
9) Check your fender from the rear and make sure it's straight, the fender will
move a little when unbolted. Get it where you like and tighten all bolts equally.